INDIAN CLUB,

If anything raises a smile faster than good food, it's laughably cheap good food. So even if you've visited The Indian Club to scratch an itch for aloo mutter, you're in for a grin if you haven't checked out their weekend brunch. From 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Sunday, toss $9.95 into the collection plate and your taste buds will be in for a religious experience -- as many times as you care to step up to the frequently replenished steam tables. The menu's list of traditional breads is longer than some of the entree categories. They include chapati, and parathas stuffed with everything from a mashed potatoes-peas combination to minced chicken or lamb. The naans and another bread called roti are baked in a tandoor, a charcoal-fired clay oven.

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